"The Herb Garden"

July 23, 2009 - Volume 1 - Issue 14

In This Issue

August 3rd Event!

Essential Kitchen Herbs

Cooking with Herbs

Preserving Garden Herbs

Smart Herb Tips

Q & A's

Cookbook Review

Recipes featuring Summer Herbs

Quick Links

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Beyond Pots and Pans Gift Registry

Fresh from the Garden!

What would tomatoes be without basil? A julep without mint? Béarnaise without tarragon? Pickles without dill? It's difficult to imagine creating great flavors and wonderful aromas without the help of herbs and spices that add character to everything we make. Ranging from subtle to dominant,

from complimentary to defining, the availability of summer herbs is upon us! Herbs and spices often define a cuisine and are grouped together in classic dishes by virtue of their original geographical proximity. Fresh summer herbs awaken improvisational possibilities in the kitchen. In this issue we survey a few essential kitchen herbs, offer some information on cooking with herbs, and recommend tools and tips for managing the profusion of herbs coming from the garden. We wrap up with three herb-based sauce recipes that are ready with no cooking in five minutes. They're sure to add delightful, fresh flavors to a host of foods.

A Special Upcoming Event

Monday, August 3rd
6:00pm

Cooking Class
with
Helen Chen

Join us for a special cooking class with Helen Chen as she cooks from her new cookbook, Easy Chinese Stir-Fries. She'll

share her best secrets for creating healthy, fast, Chinese-style meals. $65. Call us at 209-952-1966 to register, or e-mail us at info@beyondpotsandpans.com indicating your interest and we'll be in touch with you! It's going to be a great event -- don't miss it!

Essential Kitchen Herbs

Even without a green thumb, these herbs are accessible to any kitchen gardener or farmers' market fan. With these nine herbs, the summer harvest of other fresh, local produce is enhanced and showcased to the palate's perfection.

Basil - Perhaps the most utilized summer herb, basil adds its sweet and strong essence to many summer favorites. The herb is said to have hints of clove and anise. Keep pinching the tips of this tender annual plant to encourage branching and discourage flowering. After flowering, the basil flavor becomes bitter. The most commonly found basil with its large, floppy leaves is known as lettuce basil. Experiment with the many varieties available: purple basil, long-lasting Thai basil, lemon basil, lime basil, and many others.

Oregano - Essential in Greek and Italian cuisines, oregano is a hardy perennial with small, fragrant leaves. Strong in flavor with a peppery quality, oregano pairs well with basil, lemon, lamb, pork and nearly all kinds of vegetables. Throw a few sprigs of oregano, including their woody stems, on your grill's charcoals for extra infused flavor.

Cilantro - A frequent ingredient in Mexican and Asian foods, fresh cilantro is sometimes called Chinese parsley. The seeds of the cilantro plant become the spice, coriander. Cilantro, pungent and spicy, is usually added to preparations just at the end of cooking. Cilantro does not retain its flavor when dried, so fresh is always best. It does hold its flavor well when chopped and frozen in water or olive oil.

Parsley - Readily recognizable and currently maligned as an overused garnish, parsley deserves a second look as a fresh, mild herb. Flat parsley, also known as French or Italian parsley, has the preferred flavor for cooking compared with curly parsley whose ruffles make for a good garnish. Parsley pairs well with fish, lemon, eggs, and most vegetables.

Mint - Mint packs a punch as a culinary herb. Our palates are somehow cooled by the mint, almost with a slight numbing sensation in the mouth. Culinary uses of mint are prevalent in Middle Eastern dishes and Indian foods.

Mint is one of just a few herbs that match well with fruit and chocolate. It's easy to grow your own mint, though due to its aggressiveness it should always be contained in a pot.

Dill - The feathery fronds of dill (a.k.a. dill weed) pair perfectly with fish and seafood. Dill gained its reputation as an indispensable herb from northern and central European cuisines whose root vegetables seem to have an affinity for dill. Dill weed freezes well and holds its flavor better than dried dill. Try dill in potato salad and salad dressings.

Tarragon - The flavor of tarragon is strong, yet subtle. It has an anise or licorice character that is famous in French cooking. The long slender leaves add a classic flavor to vinegars, mustards, and butters. Tarragon chicken and the classic Bearnaise sauce are two favorite dishes that would be nothing without tarragon. The tarragon flavor holds up well in slow-cooking applications.

Sage - Another hardy perennial, sage has Mediterranean origins with beautiful soft gray-green coloring. Pungent and spicy, fresh sage should be used readily once picked. Dried sage is quite a bit more potent than fresh sage. Sage pairs well with apples, beans, onions and tomatoes. Explore the multiple types of sage available including tricolor sage, golden sage, clary sage and pineapple sage.

Thyme - These tiny leaves pack a punch! Another Mediterranean herb, thyme grows as a low-growing shrub. The leaves need to be stripped from the woody stems prior to use. Thyme holds up well in long-cooking applications and "plays well" with other herbs. Our favorite is lemon thyme for both its taste and its appearance.

It's hard to end the list just with these herbs - there are so many more that add delight to the garden and the kitchen . . . rosemary, chives, marjoram. . . .

Cooking with Herbs

Preparing and using fresh herbs with confidence will release their magic into your kitchen. Each herb grows differently and that impacts their handling in the kitchen. Here are a few essential techniques for using fresh herbs:

Washing Herbs - Rinse fresh herbs with water taking care to expose the undersides of the leaves to the running water. Alternatively, swish the herbs in a bowlful of cold water. Shake excess water away and allow them to air dry for a few minutes before chopping. For larger quantities of leafy herbs, use a salad spinner for washing and drying.

Stripping the Leaves - For many herbs it's just the leaves that are used in cooking. The stems may be too woody or stringy to be palatable. The leaves of some herbs, (i.e., thyme, tarragon, oregano), may be stripped easily from their stem by pulling the stem through two pinched fingers. The leaves are stripped away into a neat pile; discard the stems.

Knife Chopping - Many herbs are used in chopped form. Use a chef's knife in a rocking m

otion to mince fresh herb leaves. Chop the herbs just as you're ready to use them. The chopping process bruises the leaves and releases many of the herb's essential oils and aromas. Capture these essences by chopping and using immediately.

Cutting with Herb Scissors - Slightly odd looking, but amazingly effective, herb scissors have multiple blades that cut simultaneously. Perfect ribbons and even pieces are accomplished with each cut.

Food Processor Chopping - For larger quantities of herbs, a food processor is invaluable for achieving uniform results. Pulse 2-3 times, scrape down the sides and repeat until the desired size of chopped herb is reached.

Mini-Processor Chopping - Small quantities of herbs, including garlic, are an ideal use for a mini-processor. Use the same pulse and scrape technique as with a larger food processor.

Chiffonade - This classic cutting technique is an essential one to master with broad-leaved herbs such as basil. Layer leaves on top of each other, then roll the layers into a tight log with all leaf stems at one end. Thinly slice across the log of leaves discarding the stem ends.

The result is ribbons, or thin strips of fragrant herbs. Sprinkle the chiffonade on top of your dish as in the traditional Caprese Salad.

Pounding - The traditional method for many herbal preparations is with a mortar & pestle. The mortar is the bowl portion and the pestle is the pounding and grinding stick. Food is pulverized by pushing and scraping the pestle against the sides of the mortar. Mortars and pestles may be made of wood, porcelain, and conventionally, stone.

Preserving Garden Herbs

"Make hay while the sun shines." Capture fresh herbs while they're available in abundance. Like so much in the garden, the plenty comes all at once!

Storing Fresh Herbs - Refrigerate unwashed fresh herbs that you intend to use soon. (If the herbs are wet, shake any excess water away and allow to air dry prior to refrigerating). Place the herbs in the warmest spot of your refrigerator. Many herbs, for example, basil and mint, are very tender and susceptible to the 38 - 40°F temperatures of an icebox; if too cold, the leaves will turn black. An herb keeper is a handy device that provides fresh water to the stems and leaves while keeping the herbs cool in the refrigerator.

Drying - Fresh herbs, after washing as noted above, may be dried in several different ways:

Air drying - Bunch the herbs together making a "bouquet." Tie the stems together with kitchen twine and hang upside down in a dark, well-ventilated place.
Oven drying - Arrange the herb leaves in a single layer on a baking sheet. Place in a warm oven on the lowest setting possible. Leave undisturbed in the oven until the leaves are thoroughly dried.
Microwave drying - Spread the herbs between two paper towels and microwave in 30 second bursts. Remove the leaves as they become dry. Allow to cool. Brighter greens seemed to be retained with this method of drying.

Storing Dried Herbs - Once dried, store the herbs in a dark location in an airtight container. Store the container in a cool location - not near the heat of a stove. Plan to use most dried herbs within six months.

Freezing - Wash and chop the herbs. Package in thin layers for quick freezing. Alternatively, add a small amount of water to the chopped herbs and freeze the slurry in ice cube trays. Once frozen, store the cubes in a freezer-grade zipper bag and use as needed. Olive oil may also be used to create an herbal suspension for freezing.

Off Season Herbs with Aerogarden - To enjoy fresh summer herbs all year-long, start an indoor Aerogarden. Specially created for the kitchen, Aerogardens provide fresh herbs, petite tomatoes and other crops on a consistent basis during the off seasons. New Aerogarden models are available that are smaller in size than the original Aerogarden, including a model that fits handily in a corner.

Smart Herb Tips

Tip #1: Enjoy some compound butters with your harvest of herbs. Soften a stick of butter; mix 2-3 tablespoons of finely chopped, fresh herbs into the butter until evenly distributed. Roll the butter into round logs, wrap tightly and freeze. Cut slices of the butter as needed. Use on bread, vegetables, or as a simple pasta sauce.

Tip #2: Add a stunning savory garnish with some fried sage. Heat 2 tablespoons of butter in a small skillet. Toss in a dozen or so individual sage leaves and allow them to sauté until crisp. The brown butter and sage flavor meld into perfect herbal "glitter."

Tip #3: A classic tip, scoop up bunches of basil at farmers' market and "put by" the basil bounty for the cooler days ahead. Strip the leaves from the stems, wash, spin, or pat dry. Chop the leaves with the help of some olive oil in your food processor.

Freeze small quantities of the paste in ice cube trays. Once frozen, package the cubes in freezer-grade zipper bags. Access the cubes for inclusion in a soup or sauce, or for finishing into a pesto.

Tip #4: Dried herbs are generally added at the beginning of recipes so that they can rehydrate and release their flavors. Fresh herbs are generally added just at the end of cooking. A little heat will often help to bloom the herb's flavor, fresh or dried.

Tip #5: When cooking with herbs, add a little wine or vermouth to the mix. Alcohol dissolves certain essential oils releasing flavors in a way that water and oil are not able to accomplish.

Q & A's

Q: What's the difference between "herbs" and "spices"?
A: An innocent question with a lot of different answers depending who you ask! The consensus seems to be that an "herb" refers to the fresh form of the plant's leaves, while "spice" refers to dried forms of aromatic plants and can include seeds, bark, stems, and other plant parts. This definition begs the question whether dried herbs are then spices, but we'll let you choose that answer!

Q: What is the ratio for substituting dried herbs for fresh herbs and fresh for dried?

A: Dried herbs carry more concentrated flavor than fresh herbs. If the recipe calls for fresh herbs, use one-third the quantity of dried herbs. Conversely, if the recipe calls for dried herbs, use three times the quantity of fresh herbs.

Q: What does the term "bouquet garni" mean?
A: In French cooking, bouquet garni, refers to a bundle of herbs tied with string or wrapped in cheesecloth and added to slow-cooking dishes. The bouquet garni is removed from the pot prior to serving. The classic French version consists of bay leaf, parsley, and thyme. Other combinations of herbs can be assembled according to the dish being prepared.

Q: What is the correct pronunciation of herb?
A: Some say "erb," others pronounce the "h" in the word "herb." It seems to be an American quirk to drop the "h." Some say it's a throwback to early, French pronunciations of the word. Most other English-speaking countries pronounce the "h." Both pronunciations are so well entrenched in culture that they're both considered correct - it's a matter of dialect and local custom which one you choose to say.

Q: How long do dried herbs remain fresh?
A: Freshness is dependent on the storage conditions, but experts recommend keeping dried herbs no longer than six months. Buy small quantities of excellent quality herbs for best recipe results. To check freshness, crumble a few leaves between your fingers and assess the aroma's strength.

Cookbook Review

Herbs & Spices, a Cook's Reference by Jill Norman. Photography by Dave King. Copyright 2002. Published by DK Publishing, Inc., New York, NY.

True to its title, this book is primarily a reference on scores of herbs and spices from a cook's point of view. The book is divided into three parts: Herbs, Spices and Recipes. Each herb and spice is lavishly illustrated with stunning photography. The photos depict the herb or spice in its various forms so that each entry becomes a definitive field guide for the cook. While official botanical names are noted, the bent of information is all culinary. The taste is described, culinary uses identified, buying and storing instructions noted, and tips on growing your own presented. We thought we knew herbs and spices fairly well, but each entry offered us new information. The featured herbs and spices are global; we found this the most helpful aspect for its ability to broaden our knowledge base for ethnic cooking explorations. This global reach is echoed in the Recipe section where spice mixtures are organized by country of origin. The book concludes with loaded chapters on Sauces and Condiments, Marinades, Soups and Light Dishes, Fish, Meats, Vegetables, Pasta and Grains, and Desserts and Drinks. A helpful bibliography and excellent index end the book. It's a beautiful book to the eye and a prime resource for the kitchen cook.

Recipes featuring Summer Herbs

Recipes excerpted from Herbs & Spices, a Cook's Reference by Jill Norman. Photography by Dave King. Copyright 2002. Used with permission of the publisher, DK Publishing, Inc., New York, NY. All rights reserved.

Salsa Verde

Salsa Verde on Cauliflower

This rather generic name applies to dozens of green sauces. This version deploys parsley, a choice of mint or basil, and some punch from garlic and capers. The result of 5 minutes of effort was a tasty sauce for our cauliflower. If you're looking for ways to jazz up any vegetable, meat or pasta, this version of salsa verde will yield excellent results.

Click here to view the illustrated recipe.

Click here for a printable version of the recipe.

Pesto

Pesto on Bread

The summer classic, pesto, has been popular for a long time, some would say past popularity. We think it still deserves attention during fresh basil season. If you're looking for some variation, this recipe has three - Cilantro-Walnut (our new favorite pesto!), Parsley-Almond, and Arugula-Pine Nut. Equally at home as a bruschetta topping, a pasta dish, or a vegetable sauce, pesto still rules!

Click here to view the illustrated recipe.

Click here for a printable version of the recipe.

Green Mojo

Green Mojo on Potatoes

Inspired by a potato dish from the Canary Islands, this herb-based sauce gets its mojo from three hot peppers. It gets its freshness from parsley, and added complexity from a little cumin. The sauce base is a combination of wine vinegar and olive oil. Also ready in 5 minutes, this sauce is delicious on fish, meat, and even as a salad dressing.

Click here to view the illustrated recipe.

Click here for a printable version of the recipe.

Enjoy the freshness of summer's herbs!

Lorraine, Katie, and all of the Staff at Beyond Pots and Pans

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