The Cook's Shop

    "Cheesecake!"
March 11, 2010 - Volume 1, Issue 04        
In This Issue
Ken's Notes
Making Perfect Cheesecakes
Perfect Pans
Cheesecake Improv
Smart Cheesecake Tips
Q & A's
Cookbook Review
Three Cheesecake Recipes
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Cheesecake Scene

Cheesecake is one of the top three favorite desserts in the country along with pie and ice cream. Are we surprised? No! Creamy, delicious, and with seemingly endless flavor varieties, cheesecake sets the dessert table as easily at the coffee shop as at the white linen bistro. In fact, it's a weak dessert menu if there's not at least one cheesecake offering. But, this wonderful creation is not limited to dining out; it's quite easy to make at home with minimal effort. In this issue, we expose the secrets for making great cheesecakes, discuss baking pans that will yield the desired results, and finish with three marvelous cheesecake recipes for you to try. You'll be pleased with the results!

Ken's Notes:
This has to be one of my favorite newsletter issues so far. Cheesecake runs a close second only to my Grandmother's Irish Soda Bread as the most popular comfort food in our house.Ken's Notes It's rich and sinful, everything a good desert should be! Before I say anything more, Dagmar has asked that I emphasize that the recipe printed below is NOT her cheesecake recipe. Many have asked, but none have been chosen to receive that one. Feel free to get creative with your baking - Dagmar once made a three-tiered wedding cheesecake, decorated with fresh cut flowers and mint leaves!

If this is your first attempt, just remember that getting your ingredients to room temperature is very important. Plan ahead - don't rush. At first glance we were a little surprised at the ingredients in the Pesto Sun-Dried Tomato Cheesecake, but don't let that stop you. It was different, yes, but surprisingly good.

Cooking Classes
We're starting to make some progress, finally! Gayle Shank has enthusiastically joined us to help develop and manage our class program. With her joy for cooking and baking we're confident that we'll be able to present you with Question Marka program that's both fun and educational. In the past, Gayle has owned and operated her own bakery, was a pastry and sous chef at the Levee House and a manager at Rossi Pasta. We're excited to have her working with us and look forward to getting started with our class program.

Speaking of that program, we need your help. With so many topics to cover, we'd like to get your input as to which direction we should go. We've put together a brief survey and would like to invite you to take part in determining what we should be covering first. Participation is limited to the first 100 participants. If you can't take it, you're probably number 101, sorry. Click here if you'd like to take our survey.

Edible Arrangements
Fruit BouquetFoodies - This one's for you! I don't know if you've seen their ads on TV or in the paper recently, but we had the opportunity to try one of the fresh fruit bouquets from Edible Arrangements in Vienna the other day. Delivered cold, with everything cut fresh that morning, strawberries and apples dipped in chocolate, it was delicious. If you're looking for a unique centerpiece for a dinner party, which you can also use for dessert, we urge you to try one of these clever arrangements.
Making Perfect Cheesecakes
Cheesecake has received a reputation for being difficult to make - we're not sure why - it's much easier than most pastries, and the results always delight even when they don't turn out just right! We'll take things step-by-step and guide you to perfect cheesecakes - or at least better cheesecakes!

Cheesecake CrustCrust - the ideal cheesecake crust provides a complementary platform for the cheesecake. Typically, recipes use a dry crumb moistened with a bit of melted butter patted into the bottom of the pan. Unlike a pie, a cheesecake crust covers just the bottom and a half-inch, or so, up the sides. The crust helps to form a barrier between the batter and the pan. After patting the crumbly crust into the pan, place the pan in the freezer for 10-15 minutes while mixing the batter. This serves to harden the crust into place and prevent any shifting of the crust when the batter is added. Many bakers choose to prebake the crust in the oven for 7-10 minutes prior to adding the batter.

Mixing the Batter - Smoothness is the watchword when it comes to mixing the perfect cheesecake batter. Cheesecake is primarily a cheese of one kind or another, eggs, and sugar. In the U.S., cream cheese is the common choice.Baked Cheesecake In Italy, it's ricotta cheese, and in other regions, different forms of fresh, unripened cheese are used. Have your ingredients at room temperature before mixing. Start with beating the cheese on low speed into a very smooth consistency; lumps will not disappear or dissolve during baking, so this is the moment to achieve the desired smooth, creamy texture. Eggs serve to thicken the batter when baking. Add them one-by-one incorporating thoroughly into the cheese. Using a low speed while mixing will prevent over-aerating the batter.

Baking - Cheesecakes typically bake between 325-350ºF, and for 1 to 1.5 hours. This low and slow strategy allows for even baking - the outside will not be over-baked, and the inside will not be under-baked. The first half of baking is crucial for allowing air bubbles to expand and raise the batter. Avoid opening the oven door to check progress; Cheesecake being slicedthis will change the oven's temperature and risk collapse of the forming texture. There are "no-bake" cheesecake variations, but we tend not to think of them as "real" cheesecakes.

Checking for Doneness - A reliable, tested recipe is your best resource for timing when baking your cheesecake. The center of the pan should be wiggly and wobbly still; this may appear as underdone, but the center will continue to cook and set up during the initial stages of cooling.

Chilling - Allow the cheesecake to cool on a wire rack until it reaches room temperature - about 2 hours. Keeping the cheesecake in the pan, wrap it well and refrigerate for at least 4-6 hours. The famed chef, Dorie Greenspan, says in her book, Baking, that the cooling and chilling process is just as important to the finished cheesecake as the baking!

Pie ServerServing - Cheesecake is almost synonymous with "richness." Allow the cheesecake to set at room temperature for 30 minutes prior to serving to remove the chill just a bit. Where a 9-inch pie might be cut into eight wedges, a 9-inch cheesecake graciously serves twelve. A scalloped-edged knife glides through the cheesecake while cutting neatly through the crust. Wipe the knife clean after each cut. A pie server will deftly lift the slice to the plate. A slice of cheesecake is typically served upright for dramatic effect, but can just as easily be laid on its side with toppings applied.

Perfect Pans for Perfect Cheesecake
A finished cheesecake is fragile at the same time that it's substantial and heavy. For good outcomes at the point of serving, it's essential that you start with a proper pan. There are two basic pan styles deployed when making cheesecake; either style will ensure easy handling at finale time.
Springform Pan
Springform Pans - This pan is the common standard for cheesecake. The pan comes in two parts, a bottom, and a circular band that forms its removable sides. The band fits around the bottom and the clamp snugly tightens the ring into place forming a leak-proof seal. Most springform pans have 3-inch high sides that allow for lofty baking. To remove a cheesecake or other baked good from a springform pan, run the back of a knife or a spatula around the edge, carefully unclamp and lift away the ring.

Removable Bottom Pans - Some bakers prefer this type of pan for cheesecake. The bottom of the pan sits on a "shelf" formed by the sides of the pan. The weight of the batter presses the bottom and the side ring together. When baking and chilling is complete, run a blunt knife or spatula around the sides of the pan. Removable Bottom PanHolding the pan with one hand, push the cheesecake up from the bottom. You may carefully transfer the cheesecake from the pan's bottom, or keep the bottom in place for serving. Removable bottom pans come in all shapes, sizes, and heights and are useful far beyond the cheesecake world.

Pan Surfaces - The surfaces of baking pans vary in their finish. For cheesecake, nonstick surfaces are a bonus since the pan is not typically prepared by greasing and flouring as with most cakes. Alternatively, parchment paper may be used to line the pan's bottom and sides. The paper prevents any sticking to the pan, and is easily removed.

Pan Height - Cheesecakes love to loft during baking and our preference seems to be "the taller the better" when it comes to a slice of cheesecake - the soaring heights add to the decadence! Choose a pan with a minimum of 3-inch sides. If needed, Parchment Paper Collaradditional height can be had by forming a collar of parchment paper while lining the sides of the pan.

Pan Diameter - When making cheesecake, match the pan size to your recipe. This will ensure that the baking time provided in the recipe is an accurate estimate. For example, the volume of a 9-inch pan with 3-inch high sides is 191 cubic inches; the volume of a 10-inch pan with 3-inch high sides is 236 cubic inches. This is a difference of 45 cubic inches or 24%. If you must adapt your baking to a different size of pan, adjust the baking time accordingly.

Cheesecake Improv
Cheesecake's popularity is due, in part, to its adaptability. The mild, slightly tangy cream cheeses or ricotta cheeses accept a wide range of flavors. It's only the imagination that is limited. Here are a few of our favorite riffs on cheesecake:

Three Sizes of PansSavory Cheesecakes - The savory side of cheesecake is a great discovery ahead of you if you haven't already become familiar with this notion. A savory cheesecake may be served as an appetizer, a spread, or as a luncheon entrée accompanied by a green salad. (See the savory recipe below).

Shift the Size - While most cheesecake dreams evoke the image of a slice, you may shift the expectation and presentation of cheesecake by making different sizes of cheesecake.  Both springform and removable bottom pans come in varying diameters. Choose a 3 x 3-inch pan for an individual cheesecake, or a 6 x 3 pan for a savory appetizer version. Ramekins are suitable for cheesecake only if they are also the serving vessel; it is often difficult to remove a cheesecake from a pan that does not have a removable bottom of one kind or another.

Crust Variations - The standard for cheesecake seems to be a graham cracker crust. But, the world is big! Experiment with complementary flavors: ginger snaps, vanilla wafers, shortbread cookies, nut meals, or biscotti. For savory cheesecakes, try crusts made of cheesy crackers, saltines, crushed pretzels, or corn chips.

Tiramisu CheesecakeBatter Variations - Once you've mastered a basic cheesecake, the door to flavor variations opens wide! In the featured cookbook below, Chef Geary offers hundreds of his personal favorites. As you explore flavor additions think in three directions - the crust, the batter, and any toppings.

Topping Variations - Classic toppings of whipped cream or sweetened sour cream are almost always appropriate with cheesecake. Fruit, fresh or sauced, is the perfect visual complement and a tasty pairing. Other sauces, fudge, caramel, dulce le leche, or crème anglaise are all perfect accompaniments.

Smart Cheesecake Tips
cakeTip #1: Cracks in cheesecake can form while baking. Several factors can lead to cracking. Bake your cheesecake in a medium to medium-low oven so that it bakes slowly and more evenly. Cool the cheesecake gradually; some recommend allowing the cheesecake to cool in the oven with the door propped open. Cracks may also form if the cheesecake has baked too long; don't overbake.

Tip #2: If your cheesecake develops a crack, don't sweat it. Repair the crack by smoothing the baked batter, or camouflaging it with toppings.

Tip #3: Wrap your cheesecake well when chilling; it will easily pick up any odors present in your refrigerator.

Tip #4: Use fresh cream cheese for your cheesecakes. Cream cheese does not freeze well, i.e., don't buy a lot of it on sale hoping to stockpile for the future. Freezing changes the cream cheese's texture making it unsuitable for use. Do not substitute non-fat cream cheese or whipped cream cheese in your recipe - they do not mix or bake the same way as regular cream cheese.

Tip #5: Carefully store both springform and removable bottom pans so that they are not subject to warping or bending. We dry our springform pan very, very well, then store in a nearly clamped position.

Marbled CheesecakeTip #6:
The pan's bottom may be kept in place when plating and serving, but if you would like to transfer the cheesecake from the bottom, line the bottom with parchment paper to minimize any sticking of the crust. Use a broad cookie spatula or circular cake spatula to manage the transfer.

Tip #7: Some cheesecake recipes call for baking cheesecake in a water bath for more even cooking. Place the cheesecake pan on a sheet of aluminum foil and fold up the sides to prevent any water seepage into the pan.

Tip #8: Baked cheesecakes freeze very well. Remove a chilled cheesecake from its pan; allow it to freeze well while placed on a plate or cookie sheet. Once frozen, wrap well and freeze for up to four months. Thaw frozen cheesecake overnight in the refrigerator.

Q & A's
Q & AQ: Cream CheeseWhat is cream cheese?
A: 
Cream cheese is a fresh, unripened, pasteurized cheese comprised of 33% milk fat with a slightly acidic character from the lactic acid formed by introduced bacteria. The fat content of cream cheese is higher than most cheeses making it a common substitute for butter. Cream cheese is often compared to the French Neufchatel cheese that is similar in texture and acidic taste, but is ripened unlike American cream cheese.

Q:  What is a New York-style cheesecake?
A
:  Different explanations exist for this cheesecake term. Generally, the origins converge around a cheesecake that is made with cream cheese (as opposed to ricotta), and with just the flavors of the cheese, egg, and sugar. The popularity of cheesecake in New York City in the 1930s, no doubt, has played a role in the colloquial term.

Q:  What is parchment paper?
A: 
Parchment paper is paper with integrated silicone. The silicone can handle heat where waxed paper cannot. Parchment is a common baking liner that is moisture, grease, and heat resistant. However, parchment is still paper and will burn around the magic number of 451ºFarenheit. Avoid its use in broiling or in toaster ovens where the heating element may be too close to the paper.

Mini-cheesecakeQ:  Many baking pans are made from "anodized aluminum." What does this term mean?
A: 
Anodized aluminum is the result of aluminum exposed to an acid-induced oxidation process. This chemical process hardens aluminum in a special way that makes it especially durable. Heat is transferred evenly through anodized aluminum. A natural finish exists with anodized aluminum that creates an inert surface, i.e., aluminum will not transfer from the pan to the food. Pans may be prepared as "hard anodized" or "silver anodized." A hard anodized pan is processed longer and has an even harder surface. Wash all anodized aluminum pans by hand, and never in the dishwasher.

Cookbook Review
The Cheesecake bible by George Geary. Copyright 2008. Published by Robert Rose Inc., Toronto, Ontario, Canada.

CookbookWho knew there could be so many different kinds of cheesecake? George Geary has assembled a compendium of hundreds of cheesecake recipes that cover some serious culinary ground with their range of flavors and combinations. He tutors us through the basics in the first chapter, then unleashes the possibilities with following chapters such as "Chocolate Cheesecakes," "Citrus Cheesecakes," "Nut Cheesecakes," and many other chapters. We especially enjoyed the chapter on "Savory Cheesecakes" where wonderful flavors are brought to the richness of the cheesecake world. He helps us explore small cheesecakes, classic and inventive toppings, and concludes with a series of "Celebration Cheesecakes" that truly would make any occasion even more special. Each recipe is presented succinctly and clearly with added variation notes and presentation suggestions. This cookbook gets extra points for offering all of the measurements in metric quantities - weighing ingredients allows for the most accurate results and the least amount of clean-up. From basic to exotic, you'll find a cheesecake suitable for any occasion in this book!

Recipes for Three Delicious Cheesecakes
Recipes excerpted from The Cheesecake bible by George Geary. Copyright 2008. Published by Robert Rose Inc., Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Reprinted with permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.

Blue Ribbon CheesecakeBlue Ribbon Cheesecake

We know why this is called the Blue Ribbon Cheesecake - it has all of the qualities of a winner! This basic cheesecake is a great place to start if you're a newbie to baking your own cheesecakes. The recipe went together quickly, lofted nicely, and tasted just how we thought a cheesecake should taste. We agree with George's mother who likes this recipe the best!

Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.

Click here for a printable version of the recipe. (PDF format)

Black Forest CheesecakeBlack Forest Cheesecake

This classic combination of chocolate and cherries is reinvented in this cheesecake. The crust is made of chocolate sandwich cookies with the crème filling adding a bit of "extra" to the final result. The bittersweet chocolate combined with the cheese, produced some kind of dessert dreamland in our mouth. The cherries and whipped cream completed the moment.

Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.

Click here for a printable version of the recipe. (PDF format)

Pesto Sun-Dried Tomato CheesecakePesto Sun-Dried Tomato Cheesecake

If you're unfamiliar with savory cheesecakes, this is a great recipe with which to experiment. The fresh flavors of basil and garlic combine with the intensity of sun-dried tomatoes to create a scrumptious wedge. We served it once as a luncheon entrée, and a second time as an appetizer spread on crackers. Tasty, rich and wonderfully different!

Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.

Click here for a printable version of the recipe. (PDF format)

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Make a dessert date soon with your favorite cheesecake!
Dagmar & Ken

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